03-30-2023, 10:56 PM | #1 |
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Latest Camber Plate Recommendation?
Hi guys, I'm looking into camber plates for my M2C that I DD and will be taking to the occasional autocross and HPDE. I've been doing research on these but the threads I've read were from a couple years ago, and the consensus back then seemed to be the Millway Street camber plates for my application. I believe there's been a few manufacturers who have also come out with low to no NVH versions as well so wanted to see if you guys had any experience with those compared to the Millway.
I'm primarily looking for front camber to be able to get to -3.2deg (I believe this is sufficient to prolong life of tire?) Will be staying on stock suspension otherwise. Thanks! |
03-31-2023, 12:35 AM | #2 | |
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Not only that, but when I bought them the exchange rate was pretty good and there was no sales tax so that worked out well too. Nothing against the other camber plate makers but for a dual duty car the Millway streets are the way to go. |
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04-01-2023, 12:59 AM | #3 |
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04-01-2023, 09:10 AM | #4 |
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Another vote for Millway Streets! Not sure the max camber allowable, but I'm around -2.8 and still can dial in a bit more.
I had ground controls in the past on my m235i, and they were mildy noisy on rough terrain (clangs and rattles). Definitely enough to bother anyone sensitive to noises. |
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04-02-2023, 05:13 PM | #5 |
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04-03-2023, 06:48 PM | #6 | ||
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When FaRKle says get it, you shut up and get it! Haha thanks for replying, been watching your videos for much of my mods (steering wheel swap, camber plate recs, your track days, etc etc). Thanks for contributing so much to the F87 community! Quote:
Last edited by Boba1214; 04-03-2023 at 07:05 PM.. |
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04-03-2023, 07:17 PM | #7 |
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By the way, I know toe will need to be adjusted back to spec after dialing in more negative camber with the camber plates. Will casters be thrown off as well or would that stay relatively fixed?
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04-03-2023, 07:39 PM | #8 | |
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you don't want spec toe or you will have excessive inner edge wear for street use. I have minimal wear with zero toe running -3.0 camber
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04-04-2023, 08:18 PM | #9 | |
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04-04-2023, 10:24 PM | #10 | |
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Side Note: If you're going to track your car you'll want to get a bigger front sway bar, 28mm or bigger. Camber only corrects part of the equation and the big front bar helps tone down the body roll which causes camber loss during hard cornering. |
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04-05-2023, 01:12 AM | #11 | |
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Any recommendation on sway bar brand? |
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04-05-2023, 12:10 PM | #12 | |
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Top quality: Hotchkis The Whiteline is a 30mm solid bar so it's heavy but it's effective, three mounting positions. The Hotchkis is 32mm but it's tubular (hollow) which is nearly the same spring rate as a 30mm solid but much lighter. It has four mounting positions so it's better for fine tuning. Having said that when you're running that stiff of a sway bar minor adjustments don't matter as much. Overall, the sway bar actually does more for the chassis than camber plates and costs nearly the same, or less. On my personal car I did the camber plates first, then the sway bar but if I had to do it again, I'd say the sway bar made more of a difference than an additional degree of negative camber did. The development team for the M2/3/4 developed the car around a 28mm sway bar and trimmed the center down to whatever effective size they (or the legal team) wanted them to have. If you look at the stock sway bar, it's a 28mm bar with a 24mm step machined in the center section which effectively makes it function like a 24mm bar. When you get that high up in the bar diameter 4mm is a huge difference in spring rate. |
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04-05-2023, 01:56 PM | #13 | |
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I’m also running the Millway street camber plates but I’m actually thinking of changing to Vorshlag camber plates becouse I do a lot of track days and it seems the the street plates from Millway are getting worn out. |
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04-05-2023, 07:12 PM | #14 |
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Tried them all, we really like the Millway plates, most are in stock. If not, we have regular inbound shipments so there isn't too much wait time.
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04-06-2023, 10:47 PM | #15 | |
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04-06-2023, 10:51 PM | #16 | |
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It's great to save outer tires but if inner tires get worn, I'd still have to replace my tires prematurely... But from my research, I actually haven't seen anyone mention front sway bar upgrade to save inner tire tread, almost all just walk about negative camber to save outer tread..... So is it not that big of a concern? |
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04-06-2023, 11:32 PM | #17 | |
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04-07-2023, 03:57 PM | #18 | |
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Stiffer sway bars increase the speed at which weight transfer in a cornering situation and decrease the amount of body roll in that same situation. A bigger front sway bar would normally cause understeer on a proper chassis (ie, vehicle with double wishbone front suspension) but on a strut front suspension the bigger front sway bar limits body roll which helps in mitigating loss of negative camber during cornering. Less body roll equals more grip up front. Because you have less body roll you don't have to run as much negative camber to get more even tire wear for spirited and/or light track use. Rear sway bars on these cars are generally best to be left stock or smaller than stock to allow proper weight transfer characteristics in the rear. A bigger front sway bar is a must for this chassis, there hardly any applications where the stock bar and/or a smaller front bar would be beneficial over a larger one. |
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04-09-2023, 04:20 PM | #19 |
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Hey guys, my Millway Street is arriving tomorrow and I'm wondering if I need to go get an alignment done after installing these or could I adjust the camber plates myself to stock spec (around -1.5deg I think?) without needing an alignment? I am on stock suspension setup. Thank you!!
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04-10-2023, 03:36 AM | #20 | |
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One other thing worth doing is painting a line across the moving part of the camber plate as the pre-done markings are not visible under the alloy brace. A painted line allows you to mark up reference points on the brace should you want to have different settings for track/street. |
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04-10-2023, 11:33 PM | #21 | |
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Hi David, to be sure I understand what you mean, do I line up the white line to either Street or Track marking on the brace, as an example? I'd have my alignment shop mark both for me so I can easily switch in the future. |
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04-11-2023, 04:02 AM | #22 | |
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The street/track positions are actually reversed to what you've done in the photo, street is -2.0 & track -3.0. I also have marks on the tie-rods as increasing neg camber causes toe-out, I run zero toe both settings. What my alignment shop did was set up the track setting, I then marked up the camber & toe-in, then they did the street setting and I marked that up at home. Changing the camber is reasonably easy, just have the front jacked up (at the jack point centre of stiffening plate) to a point where the wheels are almost but not off the ground, you're trying to have neutral load at the camber plate. When I adjust toe I have the wheel off the ground so there is no load on the tie-road. Lastly just be mindful there is a limit to the neg camber setting if leaving the alloy brace on, screw '2' will go under the brace and become inaccessible so can't be tightened. For me that's -3 but I also had to grind off the little of the brace (& I'm lowered 10mm on Ohlins R&T). imo it's not worth the hassle if you have to unbolt the alloy brace each time, |
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