Quote:
Originally Posted by Twt
Quote:
Originally Posted by STK
The issue with pads and break fluid is heat. The OEM pads are not designed for the heat generated by repeated threshold breaking from high speeds. Once you are breaking correctly the pads will eventually crumble as you are generating too much heat. It shouldn't be a problem the first day or two but as you get faster and your technique improves you will need to go to track pads. They have a lot of different properties so I suggest listening to folks in the know and experiment a bit. The are differences in the way they bite, release, how linear they are, how long they last, how dusty, how loud, etc.
Break fluid is hydroscopic and as it absorbs moisture it boils at a lower temp. As it boils air bubbles form in the line and make the pedal mushy. So you want fluid with a higher boiling point than stick. I'm sure there is a thread on wet/dry boiling points of various fluids. I think Castrol has the highest but you pay for it. Others are acceptable too. You do need to chAnge the fluid as it absorbs water but not after every weekend but you should probably bleed the lines. Start w/OEM tires. They will squeal more and indicate when you are nearing the limits of adhesion. As you get better switch to better tires. They are stickier and you will go faster but they are quieter so the feedback while there is less obvious at first.
Most importantly, recognize that you, not the OEM car, is the bottleneck to going faster. Start considering upgrading when the OEM parts are creating the bottleneck, not you. Pads and fluids will be the first as the heat will cause break fade and you'll need to upgrade pretty soon. Then tires. Then possibly some suspension bits. But since the car is so capable out of the box, getting coilovers is likely a step too far unless you are really unhappy with the street experience and want something more compliant that can be notched up for the track - Ohlins for example. That choice depends a lot on personal preference, the ratio of track to street, and how much harshness and noise you can put up with on the street.
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Great advice. The car, in stock form is a beast and much more capable than most of the drivers who track it. Even Randy Pobst told me that out of the box it was one of the best cars he ever tested....and don't screw it up with mods. Having said that, pads, fluid and SS brake lines are a must for anyone on track....after that, seat time and coaching are the most important upgrades. |
The M2 is surely a beast. But honestly, almost any modern car is beyond the capabilities of the vast majority of drivers. How many drivers can initiate and correct understeer and oversteer? How many are capable of fine adjustments of brake throttle and steering? How many notice the difference in how a car handles with and without a 200 lb passenger sitting on one side of the car? Or when the tank is full or empty? How many understand the correct line around a turn? How many can drive a car near the limits of adhesion?
These are all learned skills and almost anyone can get better. It's a bit like like a musical instrument in that some folks are way more naturally talented and a few are totally hopeless. However, the vast majority of us will improve significantly with practice. We just never get the practice and are handed a license. It's as if you're given a Steinway after learning chopsticks. For quite a while, the bottleneck to going faster is the driver. Ask a Spec Miata guy how easy it is to drive a low hp momentum car at the limits. Practice not mods when you're starting out. Except for the glossy black grill surround. That's a mod I can go for.