Quote:
Originally Posted by D.Yooras
Depends on how the camber correction is done in the knuckle. There are two ways, 1) either the strut mounting section is drilled/honed 0.5 degrees off of factory or the hub mounting section is milled/machined 0.5 off of factory. If they hold the strut at a different angle than the stock knuckles, the pivot bearing with be stressed the whole time due to the angular difference of the strut. Lowering springs or coilovers make this situation even worse because the front track widens as the car is lowered (to a point).
If you find the answer about the camber knuckles you'll know the answer to why the recommend the race version (which has a spherical pivot bearing.
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Great insight.
Well I will have to check the OEM knuckles against the CSs to determine that but right now I can say (and excuse my limited knowledge) that it seems the hub angles the wheel (-camber) towards the strut (beacuse it is rubbing against the spring) so I am going to guess that whatever the difference is seems to be the angle at the hub. I am trying to put a spacer to clear the spring then get camber to clear the outer part of the fender liner… well and of course get a better alignement in the process. I know should have done camber plates to begin with but was trying to keep things the most “OEM” I could… but hey now those camber plates go all the way to - 4 degs! (entering the rabbit hole) Might as well use slicks.
Thanks for the help.